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How Sellers can prepare for a Buyer's property inspection

The perfect home simply doesn't exist. Why? Well, in a brand new home, the contractor often is not aware of everything his subcontractors do, and government building and code inspectors do not have the time or the budget to inspect everything in every home, so they usually just do a spot-check of newly constructed homes. A home that has been lived in usually has damage that occurred from simply living in it, or additions or remodeling that weren't permitted. That's why Buyers need a professional property inspection.

The purpose of a property inspection is to document the overall condition of the property at the time of the inspection and to ensure that its major systems and components (electrical, plumbing, water heater, heating and cooling, etc.) are installed correctly and working properly. The property inspection is not a warranty since the property inspector is only there for a couple of hours and never saw the home or its systems being built, so he has no idea about any quality control processes. While some items identified during a property inspection might seem like minor items individually, collectively they could add up to major headaches involving both time and money. If Sellers know what to look for, they can resolve many minor items before the Buyer's property inspector ever arrives.

A pre-listing inspection can be shorter than a Buyer's inspection because descriptions of the house might be omitted, and noting things like a hole in a screen window, or a loose door hinge, are not major items, all things considered. Collectively, though, they could cause a prospective Buyer to say, "No, thanks. Too many problems."

Doing as much as possible before the Buyer's property inspection helps ensure that escrow goes more smoothly. Following is my "checklist" of items often found during the course of a property inspection that a Seller could do or could easily hire a general handyperson to do.

OUTSIDE

  • Check that doorbells work.
  • Check for missing roof shingles.
  • Check for loose/damaged/clogged gutters/downspouts.
  • Check attic ventilation and condition of vent screens.
  • Check to see if there is standing water, especially near the foundation, after irrigation or rainfall.
  • Check for cracks in foundation walls.
  • Check structure (including attic and foundation crawl space) for pests (termites, wasps, spiders, nests, etc.).
  • Check exterior weatherproofing (stain, paint, etc.).
  • Check for any wood in direct contact with soil, including fences and gates.
  • Check for loose wiring (electric, cable, phone) and poor wire terminations.
  • Check for holes and damage to siding, doors, windows, and trim so that structure is weatherproof.
  • Check condition of fences or gates (leaning, damaged).
  • Check that any exterior outlets are weatherproofed and not in permanent use for any landscape lighting.
  • Check condition of landscape components (retaining walls, landscaper timbers, etc.).
  • Check for overgrown vegetation, especially in walkways; growing on siding, roof, chimney, fences, or in gutters; or too close to utility lines.
  • Check for trip hazards in walkways, driveways, and stairways (deterioration, vegetation, etc.)
  • Check for loose, missing, or rusted guardrails and handrails at stairways, decks, balconies, and porches.
  • Check that landscape lighting/irrigation systems work, and that sprinklers don't spray on fences or buildings.
  • Check condition of pool and spa, and related equipment and utilities.
  • Check that ponds, fountains, and waterfalls, and related utilities, work properly and are protected from children.

PLUMBING

  • Check that seismic straps are on the water heater.
  • Check that stoppers work in bathtubs and sinks.
  • Check for clogged drains.
  • Check that toilet seat bolts and screws are tight.
  • Check that faucets don't drip or leak around the base.
  • Check stop action on faucet handles.
  • Check condition of caulk/grout in bathtubs/showers.
  • Check insulation on water pipes in foundation crawl space and attic.
  • Check for safe and easy access to water shutoff valves (street curb, water heater, sinks, toilets, etc.).
  • Check for safe and easy access to any gas shutoff valves (meter, furnace, water heater, etc.).
  • Check for loose toilets and loose toilet tanks.

ELECTRICAL

  • Check for safe and easy access to electric panels and main circuit breaker.
  • Check that ceiling fans work on all speeds.
  • Check for burned out lights, including ceiling fans.
  • Check for damaged or loose outlets and light switches, including covers for outlets and switches.
  • Check for unplugged appliances, and unplug anything that is unnecessary to facilitate outlet testing by the Buyer's property inspector.
  • Remove extension cords and outlet multipliers.
  • Check that outlets work.
  • Check for outdated two-prong outlets and upgrade them to three-prong outlets.
  • Check for properly working GFCI outlets in kitchen, bathrooms, garage, and exterior.
  • Check that exhaust fans work in kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry area.
  • Check that any electrical junction boxes have covers.

INSIDE

  • Check condition of towel holders and tissue holders.
  • Check condition of bathtubs, showers, and shower doors, and replace old shower curtains.
  • Check that safety seal shows on floor-to-ceiling windows and glass doors.
  • Check that carbon monoxide alarms work.
  • Check that smoke alarms work, and that they are present on each floor of multi-story houses.
  • Check for loose kitchen and bathroom countertops.
  • Check ease of operation for doors (including closet doors and cabinet doors), drawers, and windows, including windows nailed or painted shut.
  • Check for missing, loose, or damaged hardware on doors (including closet doors and cabinet doors), drawers (stops and guides), and windows.
  • Check for loose glass panes in windows and doors, as well as glass with holes or cracks in them.
  • Check that latches/locks work on doors (including closet doors and cabinet doors), drawers, and windows.
  • Check for damage to screen windows.
  • Remove excessive storage (closets, attic, garage).
  • Check for damage to walls and ceilings that need to be patched and painted.
  • Check for moisture stains on ceilings and walls; around doors and windows; near sinks, toilets, bathtubs, and showers; and near the dishwasher.
  • Check for loose, missing, or damaged guardrails and handrails in stairways.
  • Check for loose, broken or missing baseboards and door and window moldings.
  • Check for cracked tiles or deteriorated grouting in kitchen and bathrooms.
  • Check that kitchen appliances work.
  • Check that an anti-tip device is installed on the range.

MISCELLANEOUS

  • Let dogs and cats vacation for a few hours with a family member, friend, or at a pet spa. Check that other pets (birds, snakes, rodents, etc.) are caged.
  • Certain items should be inspected annually due to their inherently dangerous nature. These include gas-using appliances, pool/spa equipment, roof, and the fireplace and chimney. If they have not been inspected within the last 12 months, having it done now can make escrow go more smoothly.
  • Check that filters are in place and clean (kitchen range hood, heating/cooling, bathroom fans, etc.)
  • Check for soot, cobwebs, and wildlife in the fireplace and lower areas of the chimney.
  • The Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) recommends that the fireplace and chimney undergo a Level II inspection any time real estate ownership is transferred, and I recommend having that done prior to the Buyer's inspection.
  • Check that the fireplace damper opens/closes easily.
  • Check for manufacturer installation guides, operating instructions, or user guides that you can provide to the buyer, especially for kitchen appliances; heating and cooling system; water heater; security, irrigation, fire suppression, central cleaning, and water modification systems; water well; and septic system.
  • Many property inspectors exclude inspection and testing of some specialized systems, such as security and irrigation systems. Once you get the Buyer's inspection report, note what the Inspector did and did not do or could and could not do. Offer to meet with the Buyer to demonstrate how those systems are operated and maintained, and provide the contact information for any companies that regularly service the systems.
  • Check for receipts and warranty papers for any work done on the property, particularly for inspections and work done to prepare the property for sale.
2 commentsRussel Ray, San Diego home inspector • August 02 2008 02:43AM

Renovating or remodeling? Start with the foundation.

As a former Realtor (Texas) many decades ago, and a property investor/flipper, and now as a property consultant/home inspector, I've had the opportunity to see the best and worst of renovation and remodeling, and my own definition of the two at this point in my life is that remodeling is small scale and involves only select rooms.

Renovation, on the other hand, gets much more extensive. I'm sure we've all remodeled a kitchen or bathroom. But how many of us have remodeled every room in the house, and replaced every appliance in the house, and replaced the roof, repaired the foundation, redone the exterior walls, renovated the fireplace and chimney, installed new doors and windows, etc.? That's renovation.

Regardless of whether or not you're remodeling a room or renovating the structure, I have just one suggestion:

Start with the foundation.

If you'll follow that suggestion, you'll find that 99% of the time your remodeling and renovation will hold up. On the other hand, if you remodel a room but don't address any foundation problems, it's highly likely that you'll get cracks in the walls, ceilings, and the beautiful tile floor you just installed.

I can't tell you how many times I've been in renovated homes over in our older neighborhoods (Bankers Hill, Mission Hills, and Kensington) where the beautiful remodeling and renovation was done "just last year" but is already full of cracks again. When I crawl under the house, well, it's no wonder. Sometimes I wonder what is holding the house up.

Here's some interesting foundation work in homes that I've inspected. All of them were in homes that had been renovated or the owners consulted me about how to upgrade their foundations so that they wouldn't have problems with their renovation and remodeling.

The following picture shows foundation renovation. I have not been able to find the design specifications for bent nails, perhaps because there are none.

Foundation bracing

 

In the following picture, you can see the brand new concrete piers that have been installed, but all the soil around the footings is gone! Unfortunately, the tile floor, installed just a few months ago, had cracks everywhere. The owners were considering suing the floor installation people, but I believe I talked them out of it.

It took a couple of months working on this problem to determine where all that soil went, but ultimately we did. Turns out that a few years previous, the city had come in and poured a new street drainage culvert to the side of this house. As usual, though, especially, in a dry climate like San Diego's, no one went out during our short rainy season to determine if the culvert was functioning properly. It wasn't. Every time it rained, the water was running through this foundation. right to left, and carrying all the soil away. It took a couple of years to re-work the foundation and replace the tile floors, mainly because of the expense involved.

Foundation boats

 

In the following renovation, a large eucalyptus tree had been removed from near the house foundation. Hey, why not use that large tree trunk to help support the foundation? This is another instance where I could not find any structural engineering specifications for the tree trunk.

Foundation tree

 

In the following picture, just a small corner of the house was sagging, so some good river rock was supposed to solve the problem, but as you can see, that front one isn't supporting anything anyway. This type of interesting fix could prevent the corner from sagging further, but it doesn't address the sagging that has already occurred.

Foundation stones

 

And finally, I find the following type of damage way more often that one might expect. Usually it is caused by plumbers, but in this one, the HVAC company that was hired to remove the old floor heater and put in nice central heating and cooling found that the darn ol' foundation wall was in the way, so they just blasted through it.

Foundation damage

 

So even if you recognize the fact that the foundation needs to be addressed before doing any other remodeling or renovation, once the foundation repairs have been done, please, please, please, have a property consultant or home inspector check up on those repairs. The good eyes of a third party can help protect your investment before the company's warranty on their work expires.

There's more to being a property consultant or home inspector than just doing home inspections for buyers and pre-listing inspections for sellers.

11 commentsRussel Ray, San Diego home inspector • August 01 2008 10:59AM